A Timeless Encounter: Attending Mass with Royal Blood in Paris

Imagine being told in your youth that one day, you’d not only attend mass in Paris but do so alongside the lineage of the Sun King, Henri IV, Saint Louis and Queen Victoria. It sounds like a tale from another era, yet this is the reality of our life in the City of Lights. Each week, we find ourselves embarking on new adventures, surrounded by friends and family with an insatiable thirst for culture.

One of the most captivating aspects of Paris is its profound sense of history. The city’s age lends itself to layers of stories, some static like the catacombs or the Roman baths beneath Notre Dame, and others dynamic, like witnessing the careful restoration of Notre Dame, a symbol of resilience and rebirth.

Every now and then, the past and present seamlessly blend, creating moments that are both surreal and deeply moving. We experienced this unique intertwining at the Chapelle Expiatoire, literally the Expiatory Chapel, in the 8th Arrondissement. Established in 1816 and completed eight years later, the chapel, an effort to expiate the regicide, stands as a tribute to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, marking the spot where their remains rested for 22 years before their reinterment at the royal tomb in Saint-Denis in 1815.

Annually, on January 21st, the anniversary of the King’s execution, a mass commemorating the fallen monarch and his queen is said somewhere in Paris. This year, the service was held at the Expiatory Chapel and we had the privilege of attending. The interior, with about 100 seats—70 of which were reserved for royal descendants—was a sight to behold with its central dome, carved walls and a pair of stunning statues.

Arriving early, we secured seats near the back, unknowingly fortuitous as the mass drew over a thousand attendees, most of whom entered only during Communion, which lasted over 45 minutes vs the typical 10 minutes.

Among the attendees were members of the House of Bourbon, including the Duc d’Anjou, called by supporters of the House of Bourbon, the Legitimists, Louis XX. His claim to a throne, woven through centuries of history, traced back to Louis XIV through Philip V of Spain. The air was thick with the echoes of a bygone era, with competing narratives from supporters of the House of Orléans about which line is the rightful heir to France’s crown.

That mass was a pause in time, a window into a past that continues to echo through the present. The Duke’s chair, placed on the altar, symbolized continuity and respect for history. The Duke, gracious and patient, met with attendees post-service, allowing for photographs and brief exchanges.

The culmination of this extraordinary event was a chorus of “Vive le Roi” (Long Live the King), a reverberating sentiment that resonated as the Duke departed. These moments, where history breathes and comes alive, are just some of those that make our Parisian life profoundly enriching.

We’re immensely thankful for these vivid experiences, reminders of the rich tapestry of history and culture that Paris, in its timeless elegance, continues to offer.